Wednesday, 1 May 2013

Best Barbie Knits eBook

I have finally put together my eBook, Best Barbie Knits. In total, it includes 23 separate knitting patterns.

Available on Ravelry and Etsy for $16.75 USD.

And on Etsy:

Wednesday, 20 March 2013

Barbie Pattern $1 Sale

I just put some patterns on Sale on Ravelry, and plan to try the same thing on Etsy.

The following are currently only $1:

Barbie Pullover with Shirt collar
$1 for a limited time

Just Hats - Six Easy Barbie Hats
$1 for a limited time

Barbie Party Dress
$1 for a limited time

Friday, 8 March 2013

New Barbie Knitting Pattern

This pattern has been kicking around for awhile but I haven't been in the mood to go trailing around with my Barbies in tow, taking pictures in public. I have to admit, it's pretty embarrassing to be a grown woman taking photos of her Barbie doll.

Although, really the worst thing anyone has said to me was "nice Barbie", and he may, or may not have meant it sarcastically. I mean, it IS a nice Barbie. Actually, now it's two nice Barbies. In all of my pictures so far, it may have seemed obvious to you, as it did to my little cousin Rose, that my Barbie has really no hair to speak of. I first found her in a bin at Goodwill and bought her for a dollar, not realising how lucky I was to get a vintage 1960's era TNT Barbie. Sure her hair was a write-off but I've compensated for that with hats, and her sweet face more than made up for it. I recently treated myself to a "new" doll of a similar vintage, that has a great head of hair.

And I have made an attempt at a new wig for the old doll. I used the tresses of another doll - Value Village this time - to cobble this together. A little watered down Elmer's was helpful as a hair gel.


I don't have a clever name for this sweater yet, but I think the pattern is pretty much finalized, and just has to be made pretty. I'll be listing it probably this weekend on Etsy and Ravelry. It will be available for download on both sites.

My ETSY Shop:


Is there anyone interested in an ebook of a collection of these patterns? I'm really having no sales at all, but lots of downloads of the free patterns, and I'm honestly wondering if I'm waisting my time trying to market them. Am I?

Thursday, 7 March 2013

Tips For Knitting Barbie Doll Sweaters

Sometimes knitting things on a small scale, like these Barbie Patterns, can be a bit of a challenge. Here are some things that I've found that make it easier:

Tips For Knitting On A Small Scale

Dropped Stitches: Have a small crochet hook (2 – 2 ½ mm, or even smaller if you have one) nearby for picking up dropped stitches.

Decreases: For left slanting decreases, you can use sl1, k1, psso (also known as SKP) OR K2tbl. Either method will get you there. It is just a question of preference. At this small scale, I find knitting through back of loops (tbl) awkward, and tend to use sl1, k1,psso instead. However, do not substitute a sl1, k1, psso for a k2 tog, that will give you a decrease that slants the wrong way.

Buttons: I have found that 5mm buttons, while more to scale with the tiny garments, are harder to manipulate and are really too small for the smallest button hole you can make. If you use 5mm buttons, I think it is better to not bother making buttonholes and just poke them through the holes between stitches. 8mm buttons are easier to find, and much easier to manipulate. It just depends on what you are using the garments for: play or display. I found my tiny buttons on Etsy.

Yarn: I am not recommending any particular name brand yarns in these patterns. Instead I envision these projects being made up of leftover bits and pieces; subtracting from your stash rather than adding to it. If you knit a lot of socks you will find some of my Barbie patterns for sock yarn and you will also find even finer pieces that can be made from leftover lace weight yarns. Generally, I have paired 2.75 mm needles with sock yarn and 2mm needles with lighter yarns. For the finer work I have used lace weight knitting yarn, punch embroidery threads, and fine (#10)crochet cotton. If it is lighter than regular sock yarn, it should work with the finer needles.
I also recommend you try smooth textured, light coloured yarn for your first projects. They will be much easier to see and handle at this small scale.

Stitch Markers: If you don’t have any small stitch markers, just tie small loops of contrasting yarn.

Stitch Holders: Many of these patterns require moving one part of the knitted piece on to a stitch holder at some point during the process. Alternately, a spare circular needle or dpn can be used. Whatever you use, it should be of a similar gauge to the main needles you are using.

Needles: I am using a circular needle, either knitting flat, or in the round using the magic loop method. Pieces worked as flat knitting can be done on straight needles and pieces worked in the round can be worked with double pointed needles, if that is your preference. You may use larger or smaller sized needles than indicated. This will result in a slightly looser or tighter fit.

Magic Loop Method: If you are just learning to knit socks or working at a small scale, I would encourage you to learn the Magic Loop method. Not only is it easier to knit with fewer needles, it makes it less likely that you will drop stitches. Also, learning this simple method allows you to use one length of needle for ANY circumference of knitting. When you purchase a circular needle, simply choose one with the longest cord you plan to need. If you knit a lot of socks, and other small-scale items (like my Barbie sweaters), I would buy circular needles no shorter than 24” or 60 cm. I would also look for good quality, smooth needles with the finest, most flexible cord you can find. Look for Magic Loop method tutorials on the Internet.

Try this Magic Loop Tutorial from Knitting

Finishing: As much as possible, these patterns are made in one piece and require minimal sewing. However, on some pieces the sleeve and underarm must be sewn together. In these cases it is a good idea to leave enough of a yarn tail (12-15 cm/5-6 inches should be plenty) to use later to sew your seam. This will save you time and cut down on bulk.

Blocking: Unless otherwise specified, I have simply laid flat the finished piece – lightly pinned to the ironing board if necessary – laid clean damp cloth over top, and pressed briefly with a hot iron.

Wednesday, 6 March 2013

Knitting Abbreviations

Wow! A lot of people have downloaded my free patterns from Ravelry, so I thought I'd better get in gear and post the knitting abbreviations that support the patterns. Not that there is anything unusual or complicated about the pattern, but I know every little bit helps.

By the way, thanks for visiting my blog. I'd really like to encourage you to share your comments here, and on Ravelry, AND post your projects and pictures on Ravelry. I'd love to see them.


Approx: approximately

CC: contrasting colour

Cm: centimeter(s)

Cont: continue

Dec: decrease

Dpn: double pointed needle(s)

Inc: increase

K: knit

MC: main colour

M1: make one

P: purl

PM: place marker

Psso: pass slipped stitch over

RS: right side

SKP: slip one, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over.

Sl: slip stitch

St: stitch

Sts: stitches

Tbl: through back loop(s)

Tog: together

WS: wrong side

YB: yarn backward – bring yarn to back of work.

YF: yarn forward – bring yarn to front of work.

YO: yarn over needle to create a new stitch

( ): repeat directions inside brackets as many times as indicated.

Tuesday, 5 March 2013

FREE PATTERN - Barbie Pullover with Sailor Collar

Here is the knitting pattern I promised in February. I think it's really fun to make (I made three without stopping), and easy. As I mentioned in my post New Barbie Pullover with Sailor Collar, I was pretty casual with the gauge and yarn when I made these, and I think the results were good in all cases. I used my 2.75mm needles because they are my favorite but you could go up a bit or down to 2mm, if that's your thing.

A Word about Magic Loop:

I just have to say that I make everything using the Magic Loop Method. It's just so easy, I don't know why I would do it any other way. All of my patterns are based on using Magic loop but that doesn't mean you can't use double pointed needles if that's what you prefer. I am going to find a great tutorial on Magic Loop and post it, but do a search yourself and find a tutorial you like. This is how I learned and I remember it was like a light bulb going on over my head.

I never consider myself an expert and I'm pretty self taught, so sometimes you may find I over explain things. I think this is helpful if you are a beginner and I think you should consider this pattern - and all my patterns - do-able at any skill level.

I will also be posting this Pattern on Ravelry as a Free Download. If you have a smart phone and knit on the go, you will find that a pattern on this blog is very readable on your phone. Barbie sweaters make a perfect pocket project.

Here is a link to my Ravelry Shop:

Barbie Pullover With Sailor Collar                     By Kelly Mullan

Skill level: Easy

2.75/ US#2 circular needle at least 60 cm/24 inches.
Two stitch holders
One 2.75/US#2, (or similar size) DPN.
Darning needle
Light weight/ 3ply fingering yarn OR 4 ply fingering yarn. The heavier yarn will give you a slightly roomier fit.

With circular needle, cast on 36 sts. Arrange stitches for knitting in Magic Loop with 18 sts on each needle.
Rounds 1 – 8: (K1, P1) repeat to end of round.
Rounds 9 – 15: K.
Round 16: K7, P6, K to end of round.
Round 17: K.
Round 18: K7, P6, K to end of round.
Round 19: K.
Round 20: Bind off 2 sts, K4 (you now have 5 sts on the right needle), P6, K5, (turning to second half of round) bind off 2 sts, K to end of round. Break off yarn. Slip work onto 2 stitch holders. Set aside.

Sleeves (make two)
Knit flat. On 2.75mm needles (straight or circular), cast on 12 sts.
Rows 1 – 3: K.
Row 4 (WS): P.
Rows 5: M1, K to end of row, M1 (14 sts total).
Row 6 - 16: K on RS, P on WS.
Row 17: Bind off first 2 sts, k to end of row, psso second last st over last st, break off yarn and pull through last st. Slip sleeve off of main needle and on to DPN. Set aside.
Make second sleeve the same as first and slip on to the same DPN facing the same way up.

Connect Sleeves to Body
Slip body off of holders and back on to the circular needle.
K to the first gap. Knit first sleeve off of DPN and on to main needle. Make sure it is facing right side up. K to the second gap. K the second sleeve off of DPN and onto the main needle. While working this round, re-adjust the stitches on the needle so that half (5sts) of the sleeve stitches are on either side of the work. You do this by pulling the needles through the stitches so that the loop is pulled all the way in. Adjust stitches and pull loop out once more between the stitches you want to separate.
Next Row: K 10, P3 (you are now at the center front). Turn the work so that you are working back the opposite direction, and on the WS. Now you may adjust the needles so that the points of the needle are at the Center Front of the sweater and the needle loop is pulled out the center Back of the sweater. P to last 3 sts, K3 (you are now back at the center front).
Next Row (RS)(begin making decreases for Raglan Sleeves): K6, SKP, K2tog, K6, SKP, K2tog, K12, SKP, K2tog, K6, SKP, K2tog, K3, P3.
Next Row (WS): P to last 3 sts, P3.
Next Row (RS): K5, SKP, K2tog, K4, SKP, K2tog, K10, SKP, K2tog, K4, SKP, K2tog, K2, P3.
Next Row (WS): P to last 3 sts, P3.
You may now fit all of the stitches onto 1 needle, if it makes it easier for you.
Next Row (RS): K4, SKP, K2tog, K2, SKP, K2tog, K8, SKP, K2tog, K2, SKP, K2tog, K1, P3.
Next Row (WS): P to last 3 sts, P3.
Next Row (RS): K3, SKP, K2tog, SKP, K2tog, K6, SKP, K2tog, SKP, K2tog, P3.

Row 1: P to last 3 sts, K3.
Rows 2 – 15: K on WS and RS.
Row 16: Bind off. Feel free to make the collar longer or shorter, as you like.

Turn sweater inside out. With yarn tails, sew sleeve seam and then underarm. Turn right side out and block by pinning flat with collar folded in place. Place a damp cloth over and press lightly with a hot iron.

Sunday, 3 March 2013

Download Patterns Directly from Ravelry

Well I finally got it together and set my patterns up on Ravelry for direct download. I have one free pattern for now, and also patterns for sale. And the best part is you don't have to sign up with Ravelry to get them!

Here is what's on Ravelry:
High Collar Coat and Beret (2 Pieces) $4.50

Chunky Turtleneck $3.50

Barbie Suit with Pill Box Hat (3 Pieces)$5.00

Barbie "New Look" Dress $3.50

Barbie Camel Coat $3.50

Barbie Cable Knit Sweater with Matching Beret (2 Pieces) $4.50

Barbie Fair Isle Sweater $3.50

Barbie Twin Set (2 Pieces) $4.50

Barbie Party Dress $3.50

Barbie Crochet Circle Jacket - FREE
For more details go to:

Thursday, 28 February 2013

How to Make a Mock Cable

The stitches in my Barbie Cable Knit Sweater and Matching Beret are tiny. I've dispensed with fiddly cable needles by using a Mock Cable stitch that you can make on two needles. I think this makes things a little easier.

Here's how it goes:

Remember, these instructions are for knitting in the round so ALL rows are Right Side rows.

Round 1: (P2, K3) repeat.

Round 2: (P2, K3) repeat.
Round 3: (P2, K3) repeat
Round 4: (P2, take needle to the front of work, K 3rd st on left hand needle, then 2nd st, then 1st st: slip all sts off tog.)

So, in other words on Round 4 at the cable you are skipping over 2 stitches, knitting the THIRD stitch first, MIDDLE stitch next, and FIRST stitch last. As you go through these three stitches, the original stitches are still ON the left needle. Now pull all the stitches off the left needle, and continue.

Here is a link to a Knitting Help video for Mock Cable. I think she has some good tips, but she makes it look harder than it should be. I think it makes a huge difference that she is using a fat fuzzy yarn. She says so herself. Using a smooth, light coloured yarn makes everything easier! I do like her emphasis on keeping the tension as loose as posible and her clear explanations. Keep in mind that she is knitting flat and my instructions are for knitting in the round.

This is what Mock Cable should look like. I've stretched the work out a bit so you can see all of the stitches. 

Mock Cable

Don't worry about blocking the sweater. This stitch's natural ribbed quality makes a nice figure hugging look from a relatively bulky knit.

This is what the sweater looks like off the doll. Much better on, I think.
For this pattern and more Barbie Patterns, check out these pages:

AND please consider making a comment about, or pinning this post.